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Santorini, Naxos & Athens
A trip by Sandy PapasGreece Travel SecretsSantorini, Naxos & Athens
Many people have realised that there is more to Greece than just Santorini and Mykonos. Naxos has become a perennial favourite with its excellent beaches, charming mountain villages, and thriving agricultural scene, and is a great combination with Santorini, with easy connections.
Santorini
Days 1–3 of 9 · 3 nightsSantorini is a bucket-list destination for most people, and for good reason. Despite the cruise ships and the crowds, it remains one of those places that not only meets your expectations but probably exceeds them. The views truly are the stuff of legends, and it is little wonder it is so popular with honeymooners. It can get a bit crazy when the cruise ships come in each day, so a room with a pool and terrace makes for a great escape for an afternoon siesta and sundowners. When you re-emerge for dinner, most of the tourists will have floated away! There are a surprising number of things to do on Santorini with beaches, wineries, hot springs, great shopping, and some of the world's most iconic and photographed sunsets. There are even a lot of great things for kids, too!
White Pearl Cavalieri Santorini Imerovigli
Restored wine canavas on the caldera rim in Imerovigli, turned into suites.
9.8 Alternative places to stay
SantoriniDay 1
Kamari beach & Oia
Kamari beach
Kamari Beach is one of the most popular and most visited beach resorts in Santorini. It is located in the seaside village of Kamari. The beach is composed of black volcanic sand and is 5 kilometers long, among the 3 longest beaches in Santorini, with deep crystalline waters and a series of trees. It is fully organized with hundreds of sunbeds and umbrellas, showers, a lifeguard on duty and numerous facilities.
Oia
World’s most iconic sunset on this cliffside village of astounding beauty. Narrow alleys wind their way through whitewashed buildings adorned with blue-domed churches and vibrant bougainvillea, while the island’s caldera and the azure sea, stretching out as far as the eye can see, offer a dramatic backdrop to the scene. Visitors can explore the village's charming streets, lined with boutiques and cafes, and soak in the laid-back atmosphere. Oia was the first village in Greece to become a heritage site as its greatest part has been built below ground level partly hewn within the rock. As the sun sets, the sky transforms into a riot of colors, making for an unforgettable experience that will stay with visitors long after they've left this magical place.
Santorini Mou
A family taverna in Finikia, a few minutes' walk below Oia, where dinner comes with live Greek music almost every night – the owner straps on his guitar around nine and the singing runs late. Checked tablecloths, a flower-filled courtyard, lamb and fish done simply and well. Book a table; the garden fills fast in summer.
SantoriniDay 2
The Caldera Cruise & Ammoudi Bay
Santorini Caldera Cruise
A classic – Red Beach, White Beach, Hot Springs in Palia Kameni, Nea Kameni, swimming, snorkeling, volcanic bath (optional) and a greek meal with beer and wine included on this cruise on a modern catamaran yacht. Capture stunning panoramas of picturesque Santorini and its volcanic lagoon. Transfer from and to your hotel / vacation rental, as well as snorkeling equipment, also included. We will provide full details, and proceed to reservations if you wish, following your booking.
Ammoudi Bay
At the bottom of the scenic village of Oia, lies the charming, small port of Ammoudi. It is a beautiful, tiny cove with crystalline waters and fishing boats lying in the sea. Here there are no beaches, sand, sunbeds and umbrellas but you can have a distinctive experience by swimming from the dock. Nevertheless, it is preferable that you follow the path, past the taverns, that ends up in an awesome diving area with crystal clear waters.
Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna
Dinner in Ammoudi Bay is a Santorini ritual, and Dimitris is the taverna that does it best. Opened in 1989 by Dimitris and Joy, it sits right where the red cliff meets the water – tables close enough to the sea that the catch of the day arrives by boat a few metres away. The fish comes from the same local fishermen the kitchen has worked with for decades, grilled simply with lemon, good bread and cold Assyrtiko. Come for the golden hour, stay until the caldera lights fade.
SantoriniDay 3
The Caldera Walk & the Wineries
The Caldera Walk
Three kilometers along the volcanic rim – one of Europe's great walks. Fira through Firostefani to Imerovigli.
Wine Tasting Tour
Volcanic soil, sea spray, and 3,500 years of winemaking – Santorini's vineyards produce whites unlike anywhere else. A half-day tour visits two or three estates, sampling Assyrtiko (crisp, mineral, electric), Nykteri (barrel-aged and honeyed), and Vinsanto (sun-dried grapes turned liquid amber). The vines grow pruned into low baskets – kouloura – to shield grapes from the Aegean wind. Santo Wines and Venetsanos have caldera-view terraces; Domaine Sigalas is the serious oenophile's pick. Most tours include local cheese and olive pairings. Book a sunset session if available – the caldera turns gold through a wine glass.
Le Moustache Pool Lounge
Caldera-edge cocktail bar and pool lounge – daybeds by the infinity pool, a DJ that starts slow and builds into sunset, a cocktail menu that takes Santorini's volcanic produce seriously. For that one evening you don't want to cook dinner with the rest of the island, just order another round and watch the colour change.
Naxos
Days 4–6 of 9 · 3 nightsNaxos is the largest and greenest island in the Cyclades group. It is known for its excellent beaches, charming mountain villages and thriving agricultural industry which makes it a very different island to Santorini. Being so big and with so much to do we recommend trying to stay on Naxos for as long as possible. A week is not unheard of and many people stay for months at a time.
La Grande Vue Suites Naxos
Cave villas with private pools and a long view over the Naxian coast.
9.9 Alternative places to stay
NaxosDay 1
The Portara & Naxos Town
Agios Georgios Beach
Chora's own beach – a shallow sandy crescent curving south from the old town, water so calm it feels like a lagoon. You can walk to it from the port in ten minutes, drop your bag at a beach bar, and be swimming before lunch. Families love the gentle shelf; the south end is where the windsurfers go out. The rocky islet with the whitewashed church is the photo.
Naxos Town (Hora)
A vibrant waterfront hub where serpentine alleys hide bakeries, boutiques, and tavernas serving the island's famous produce.
Bourgos & The Old Market
The Greek quarter below the castle walls – historical churches, artisan shops, and courtyards that invite you to linger.
Castle of Naxos
The only Venetian castle in Greece continuously inhabited since 1207 – eight centuries of life behind fortress walls.
Portara (Temple of Apollo)
A marble gateway to myth stands alone against the Aegean sky – the last fragment of a temple never finished. The Portara is the monumental entrance to an unfinished Temple of Apollo, initiated between 530-524 BC by Lygdamis, the tyrant of Naxos. Standing six metres tall on the Palatia islet at the harbour entrance, this marble doorframe is the island's most iconic silhouette.
Labyrinth Wine Restaurant
Hidden deep in the maze of the Old Market's alleys, Labyrinth is the kind of place you find once and go back to twice. Tables fill a vine-draped courtyard built around an old stone well – candle-lit after dark – and a serious cellar of Cycladic and Greek wines backs a menu of fresh, seasonal Naxian cooking. Book ahead in summer; the courtyard is small and everyone wants it.
Avaton 1739
A beautifully restored Venetian-era townhouse in the heart of Chora, now a split-personality spot for the best hours of the day: golden-hour drinks on the upper terrace with the bougainvillea and the sea below, then down to the inner courtyard for a candlelit dinner. The wine list leans Cycladic, and the kitchen is refined without being fussy.
NaxosDay 2
Alyko, Plaka & the mountain villages
Aliko Beach
A cedar-forested peninsula hiding secret coves and wild beaches – Naxos at its most untamed and beautiful.
Plaka Beach
A long run of soft sand on Naxos's southwest coast, where shallow turquoise water barely raises a ripple. Plaka is the Cyclades with the volume turned down: cedars and low dunes behind the sand, whole stretches left free for anyone with a towel, and where sunbeds and tavernas do appear, they charge a good deal less than Mykonos or Paros. There's room to spread out – the beach runs long enough that crowds never really form – and the water stays calm, clear and shallow far out, easy for small children and long, idle swims. It faces west, so stay for the end of the day: the sun goes down over open sea, and the whole beach slows to watch.
Filoti
The largest of Naxos's mountain villages, terraced on the slopes of Mt. Zas. A pause here is an institution: a coffee at Platano on the square, under the shady plane trees, while the village goes about its day. From Filoti you can set off up the mountain to the Cave of Zeus, or simply wander the stepped lanes and the big neoclassical Panagia Filotitissa church.
Apeiranthos
The 'Marble Village' where cobblestone streets, four museums, and centuries-old weaving traditions feel untouched by time.
Halki & Vallindra Distillery
An elegant village in the fertile Tragea plain, where neoclassical houses frame a legendary citron distillery.
Rotonda
High in the hills just before Apeiranthos, Rotonda is a large restaurant and bar with sweeping views over the valley and out to sea – the kind of view that stops conversation when you walk in. Come for a long lunch after the mountain villages, or for a late dinner that turns slowly into drinks as the lights of the island come on below.
Flamingo Bar
For some great live music, plate smashing and dancing, Flamingo is the place to be. A late-night Chora institution that runs on house band energy, bouzouki and pitchers of house wine. Not a cocktail-and-cool-crowd bar – a plates-on-the-floor, everyone-on-their-feet kind of night. Come after dinner and let it build.
NaxosDay 3
Agia Anna & Agios Prokopios
Agia Anna Beach
A seamless continuation of golden coastline – tavernas lining the shore, gentle waves, and a village that lives for summer.
Agios Prokopios Beach
Often voted Naxos's most beautiful beach – a long golden sweep sheltered from the north winds, six km from town.
Temple of Demeter
A 6th-century-BC Ionic temple set in the green inland plain near Sangri, dedicated to Demeter and goddess of the grain. Partially reconstructed from its original Naxian marble, it sits alone on a low rise with wheat fields all around – a quieter, more atmospheric version of the ancient sites you queue for elsewhere. The on-site museum rounds out the visit.
To Elliniko
Worth queuing for a table. A lively Greek taverna near St. George beach whose garden terrace fills up the moment dinner service opens – the grill runs non-stop and the portions are generous in that old-school Naxian way. Souvlaki, slow-cooked lamb, fresh salads, simple Naxos-produce plates done well and priced fairly. Come early or book ahead in July–August.
Athens
Days 7–9 of 9 · 3 nightsAthens of course is the Capital of Greece and is one of the oldest cities in the world, having been occupied for around 5000 years. Apart from the many things you can do in Athens including great shopping, incredible food, and all the ancient sites, there is also great nightlife with a plethora of bars, tavernas, and clubs to choose from. The ancient centre is easy to get around and very walkable. There are a lot of new hotels and restaurants, many with incredible rooftop views, especially of the Acropolis. It's surprisingly affordable compared to most European capitals and returns tremendous value for your dollar.
Noble Suites
A 1901 neoclassical house under the Acropolis – four suites of marble and old wood.
9.7 Alternative places to stay
AthensDay 1
The Acropolis & Plaka
The Ultimate Food Tour
Acropolis
The Acropolis is the symbol of Athens, the sacred rock, linking the fabulous ancient civilisation with the modern city. The monuments on the Sacred Rock date back to the prehistoric era and antiquity. The grandeur and beauty of the Sacred Rock attract Greek and foreign visitors. A visit to the Acropolis is a unique experience.
Acropolis Museum
It is one of the most important contemporary works of architecture in Athens. Its construction, designed by architects B. Tschumi and Mih. Fotiadis was completed in 2007. Standing only 300m away from the Acropolis, its total area covers 21,000 sq.m, while it offers a display area of 14,000 sq.m. It is made of steel, glass and concrete; it uses natural light efficiently so that its 4,000 exhibits would show off. The last level (The Parthenon room) has the dimensions and the direction of the Parthenon and it has been rotated by 23 degrees in relation to the rest of the building so that the visitor would have an immediate view of the monument. The surrounding area, visible from the glass floor of the ground level, functions as an openair museum-excavation. The main entrance is on Dionyssiou Areopagitou Street. In addition, the imposing Weiller building stands in the vicinity. Having been built by German architect W. Von Weiller, it combines Byzantine style masonry and neoclassical decorative patterns. Initially it was used as a military hospital and later as police unit headquarters, whereas since 1987 it houses the Acropolis Research Centre
Kostas
Amazing gyros – a tiny grill on Agia Irini Square that has been doing pork souvlaki the same way for decades. A handful of stools, a queue that moves fast, and the smell of charcoal two streets away. Grab one (or two) in the pita, open the wax paper on the square, and you've understood why this is the Athens food pilgrimage.
Plaka
Plaka, also known as the "neighbourhood of the gods," is the oldest neighbourhood of Athens. Walking on its paved narrow streets you get the feeling that you are travelling back in time. The origin of the name of the neighbourhood is unknown, although theories abound. According to popular belief, Plaka was named after a slab of stone that was found near the church of Ayios Georgios Alexandrias, in the vicinity of the theatre of Dionysos. The beautiful neoclassical style colour of the houses, the architecture, the well-kept gardens, and the beauty and atmosphere of the neighbourhood are enchanting. In Plaka the air you breathe is different; it is lighter, cleaner, and fragrant, like a gift of the gods. When you visit Plaka you should bring a map, because you might get lost in the labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys. In Adrianou Street, the central street of the neighbourhood, as in other streets in the area, you will find shops selling traditional products, souvenirs, Greek folk art and handicrafts, etc.
Yiasemi
Yiasemi is a café in Athens, Greece on busy Mnisikleous -a steep, stepped, pedestrian street in the Plaka area that leads down from the Acropolis and is lined with cafés and restaurants. It feels like one of the more characterful offerings on the street, with two separate indoor spaces, seating outside on the steps (of course), tons of plants and flowers, and adorable mismatched furnishings and décor. There's a selection of meze and other dishes but your best bet is to grab a tea or Greek coffee and something sweet to snack on – one of the homemade pies or the honey-drenched, big-enough-to-share baklava. Yiasemi is a nice mix of locals and tourists, buzzy and busy without feeling rushed, and offers superb people-watching
Lithos Taverna
Tucked into a Psirri side street, Lithos does my favourite Moussaka in Athens – layered the way your grandmother would approve, sitting in front of you within minutes of ordering. The room is stone-walled and unfussy, the wine comes in carafes, and the kitchen turns out the Greek classics with just enough finesse to make the regulars regulars.
AthensDay 2
Syntagma & the Temple of Olympian Zeus
Syntagma Square
Syntagma Square is Athens' central square. The name of the square is derived from an uprising on 3 September 1843, of the people and the guard of Athens before the then Royal Palace building, (what is now the Parliament), demanding that King Otto grant a Constitution (Syntagma means Constitution). Syntagma Square and Omonia Square are the two central locations of the city. You should not be surprised when you ask directions if people refer to Syntagma square. Plaka, Acropolis, the Cathedral, the National Garden, Ermou Str, and Kolonaki, are located in the vicinity of Syntagma Square. You will find fashionable cafes and small restaurants located here. The square is busy around the clock. At the kiosks you will find miscellaneous items, ranging from aspirin to souvenirs, newspapers and foreign magazines.
Greek Parliament
Dominating Syntagma Square, the building was the residence of the first king of Greece Otto. The building was constructed from 1836 to 1842. George A', who succeeded Otto on the throne, also resided in the palace. During his reign, two successive fires destroyed the building, making it unsuitable for use as a royal residence. In 1924 the government decided to situate Parliament in the building. Reconstruction work was completed in 1934. The interior was redesigned by architect A. Kriezis. In Parliament you will find national treasures, such as the first Greek Constitution, a collection of valuable paintings and a large library.
National Garden
The National Garden, open from dawn to sunset, is an oasis in the centre of the city. It has a total area of 160,000 m2. Some five hundred different kinds of plants, bushes and trees from various locations around the world are grown here (in total, it has 7,000 trees and 40,000 bushes). At the same time, it comprises an important natural life reserve in Athens as many different species of birds, hedgehogs, turtles, ducks and even bats are gathered here. The National Garden – which was formerly the palace garden - was laid out from 1838-1860. There are six entrances: at Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Irodou Attikou Str, Vasilissis Amalias Avenue, and two entrances connecting the National Garden to the Zappeion. You will also find here a small pond, a small zoo, the Botanical Museum, a traditional café, a children's library, a playground, various monuments of antiquity, and the busts of important personalities of modern Greece (among others, politicians and authors).
Temple of Olympian Zeus
According to the geographer Pausanias, the temple of Olympian Zeus was founded by Deukalionas, a mythical ancestor of the Greeks. In the age of tyranny, circa 515 BC, Peisistratos the younger grandson of the tyrant Peisistratos, attempted to replace the old temple with a new, more impressive temple. The tyranny, however, was abolished and construction work was terminated. The construction of the new temple was later assigned to the Roman architect Decimus Cossutius by the king of Syria Antiochus IV, Epiphanes. Antiochus died in 163 BC and the construction of the temple was once again abandoned. The structure did not have a roof and pediment. The construction of the temple, which ranks among the biggest in antiquity, was completed in 131 AD by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. It is of Corinthian order (110m in length and approximately 44m in width), three rows of eight columns at the narrow sides and two rows of twenty columns at its long sides. Inside the temple there was a gold and ivory statue of Zeus which does not exist today.
Athinaikon
An Athens institution since 1932, Athinaikon is where the city goes for proper ouzomezedes – shrimp croquettes, fried smelt, mussels saganaki – on marble tables under old photographs. It moved premises with its regulars over the decades and never lost the habit of doing simple things properly. Order a carafe of ouzo and a spread of small plates; service is brisk, portions honest, the bill kinder than the neighbourhood suggests. Between Syntagma and Monastiraki, it is the natural dinner after the Evzones' changing of the guard.
Grande Bretagne Roof Bar
The rooftop bar of the GB Roof Garden restaurant, crowning the Hotel Grande Bretagne on Syntagma Square. Take a stool at the marble counter or a terrace table at golden hour – the Acropolis floodlit across the rooftops, a list of some fifty cocktails, and the calmest view in the city centre. Open daily 13:00–02:00; smart casual, and book ahead in season.
AthensDay 3
Ermou, Monastiraki & the Central Market
Ermou Street
Athens' great shopping mile – the marble-paved pedestrian street running from Syntagma Square down toward Monastiraki. High-street flagships and old family shops stand side by side, and halfway down the tiny Byzantine church of Kapnikarea sits marooned mid-stream while the crowd parts around it. Best saved for the end of the trip: shop last, and carry nothing around the islands.
Monastiraki
A distinctive old Athens area, with narrow, irregularly criss-crossing streets, and small buildings, characteristic of Ottoman and to some extent Byzantine urban planning. On the outdoor stands of street sellers, or the small shops on the central roads you can find anything, such as shoes, clothes, old and new furniture, old books and magazines, souvenirs, jewellery, hats, bronze objects, new and used records and CDs and traditional Greek instruments (bouzouki, touberleki). Shopping or walking in Monastiraki is an unforgettable experience. You will be stunned by the variety and quality of things you can buy in the market
Central Municipal Athens Market
Varvakeios Municipal (Central) Market is a rectangular building (1886) with a large covered court. There are a total of 73 food stalls (meat market, fish market, vegetable market and groceries) in the interior and exterior sections. The market is covered with a glass and metal roof and has symmetrical windows. You will find here small restaurants (eating-houses) with fresh food, attracting Athenians especially after midnight. There is a small grove on the square (Varvakeios Square) across the street.
Psirri
A colourful neoclassical Athens neighbourhood, encompassed by Athinas Str, Ermou Str, and Evripidou Str. It is a busy neighbourhood, especially in the night. You will find on its narrow alleys a multitude of cafes, small bars, clubs, restaurants, ouzorestaurants, and taverns with live Greek music, theatres, galleries, art galleries, and antique shops. Following the liberation of Greece (1833), veteran freedom fighters and immigrants from the provinces settled in the neighbourhood. They opened cottage industries and workshops, which have given the neighbourhood a distinctive character. In the early 1990s, following a series of construction works, the neighbourhood became a popular nightlife and residential area. The churches in the area are also quite interesting, such as Ayioi Anargyroi, Ayios Demetrios, Ayios Gregorios (Armenian), et al. Iroon square, the central square, is a good place for you to start your walk.
Klimataria Tavern
A century-old taverna in the Koukaki neighborhood at the foot of the Acropolis. Painted vine-leaf walls, live rebetiko on weekends, and the kind of meze plates – grilled octopus, fava, gigantes – that make travelers come back the next night. Order house wine from the barrel and let the kitchen send what's good.