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3 Weeks in Greece
A trip by Sandy PapasGreece Travel Secrets3 Weeks in Greece
Three weeks is the trip-of-a-lifetime version of Greece – long enough to do the four most distinctive Cyclades plus the west of Crete, and to close with a long Athens that takes in the Acropolis, the Riviera, the museums, and a Meteora day trip if you want it. Fly into Chania, ferry the Cyclades north, end in Athens.
Chania
Days 1–4 of 21 · 4 nightsChania is the trip's opening – fly in straight from Europe, settle in for four nights with the Venetian harbour, the Old Town, Balos and Elafonisi on the wild west coast, and the long descent of Samaria Gorge. The strongest possible start before turning north into the Cyclades.
Icarus Hotel Chania
A polished beachside stay in Kalamaki, a short drive from the old harbour.
9.3 Alternative places to stay
ChaniaDay 1
The Venetian Harbor & the Old Town
Old Venetian Harbor
Dating from the 14th century, the old harbor is ringed by a promenade lined with seafood eateries and cafés; it buzzes with visitors in summer, and is totally enchanting by night. As you wander to the east of the old harbor, you'll pass by the small mosque, erected by the Ottoman Turks after they took Chania in 1645. Today it serves as a small art gallery. Beyond the mosque, stand the arsenals, where the Venetians repaired their galleys, and a yachting marina. This entire stretch of coast is protected by a breakwater, and on its tip stands a lighthouse-it was designed by an Egyptian architect in 1839 and is strangely reminiscent of a minaret. On the point across the water from the lighthouse stands the Maritime Museum and the Firkas Fortress.
Old Town
One of the best things to do in Chania is wander through the maze of narrow, pedestrian-only streets in the historic old town. An architectural style jumps out at you around every corner. Shops lining the streets and stairways sell souvenirs, and cute restaurants and cafés are tucked into shady patios. As you walk around, you'll come across four distinct areas, each with its own look and feel: Kastelli is hilly and quite old with very narrow, twisty walkways. If you come across a group of tourists, it's often too tight to pass. Topanas is just back from the old port and has narrow roadways. The Jewish District is easily identified by its wider streets. The Splantzia District has the greatest number of outdoor cafés and restaurants, mostly located around a huge plane tree in front of the Church of St. Nicolas.
Pallas
Pallas boasts modern, quirky styles that are characterized by bright areas with sofas, wooden tables and bars, and a luxurious sense of comfort. Whether you choose to sit inside, or you prefer the tables outside, overlooking the sea, our music -electro, lounge, classic soul & funk- will accompany you, completing your experience and creating the ideal environment in which to enjoy our delicious food.
ChaniaDay 2
Balos lagoon & Falasarna
Balos beach
A pink-sand lagoon at the far north-western tip of Crete – and yes, the photos do not lie. Most people reach it by boat from Kissamos (about an hour) and combine it with a stop at the pirate islet of Gramvousa; the cliff-top hike down is the alternative for the energetic. Bring shoes you can walk in shallow water with.
Falasarna beach
Falassarna beach is not only one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece, but has also been voted the best beach in Crete and one of the 10 best beaches in Europe! It is a huge bay which actually consists of 5 exotic beaches. Falassarna beach has pink sand, cyan-hued water, and an unreal landscape. The main beach of Falassarna is named Pahia Ammos and stretches for 1 km. Thanks to its huge size, this beach almost never gets crowded, so it’s a top choice for those who seek freedom! In Pahia Ammos you can find facilities, such as umbrellas, a canteen, a beach volley court, and water sports facilities, for the water sport fanatics!
Koukouvaya
A hilltop café above Chania – Cretan coffee, warm bougatsa, and the bay laid out below in a single sweep. Koukouvaya sits on the Profitis Ilias hill, looking down over Halepa and the old harbour. The drill is simple: Cretan coffee or a freddo, a slice of warm bougatsa or galaktoboureko, and a chair on the terrace. Mornings smell of butter and orange peel; late afternoons hold the light until the sun drops behind the lighthouse. It's unpolished on purpose – the kind of place locals use as a meeting point, not a destination. Cash and card both work. Best paired with a slow walk back into town, downhill all the way.
ChaniaDay 3
The Samaria Gorge
Samaria Gorge
The full sixteen-kilometre walk down the Samaria Gorge is one of the great Cretan days – start at Omalos before 09:00, finish at Agia Roumeli on the south coast, ferry back to Sougia or Chora Sfakion, bus back over the mountains. Plan a full day; arrive at your Chania hotel with sore legs and the feeling of having earned dinner.
Tamam
A Cretan kitchen inside a converted Ottoman hammam – the old town's most reliable table for over forty years. Tamam tucks into Zampeliou, one of the narrow lanes climbing from the harbour into the old town. The room is the original 19th-century bath, low domed ceilings and arched alcoves, candle-warm at night. The food is Cretan with Levantine and Anatolian threads pulled through – eggplant slow-cooked with yoghurt, lamb with cumin and pomegranate, fava with caramelised onions. The menu is long, the portions generous, the wine list well-priced. Vegetarians eat very well here. Reservations are smart in high season, and the back tables in the vaulted room are worth asking for. A short stagger from the Venetian harbour when dinner's done.
ChaniaDay 4
Elafonisi's pink sand
Elafonisi beach
The eternal rival of Balos competing for the prize "the best beach of Crete", Elafonisi is one of the most famous and upvoted beaches in Chania, which stands out for its exotic setting! Elafonisi is basically a sandy peninsula, with many beaches, both organized and unorganized. The eastern part of the beach is organized, thus more crowded, but there are also many quiet coves that reward the traveler with privacy and serenity. The sand in Elafonisi beach is fine and white (pinkish is some parts!), the water is turquoise and shallow, while the landscape is exotic and unbelievably beautiful. What else could one possibly ask for? Keep in mid that Elafonisi is a protected natural reserve, where many plants thrive and rare animal species find shelter.
Fagotto Jazz Bar
Located on a backstreet right behind the Venetian harbor, Fogotto is a romantic jazz bar ideal for those of you looking for a quiet night out. If you decide to spend your night here, you will love the incredible romantic ambiance, the large variety of drinks, and attentive staff. You can sit inside the cozy and air-conditioned bar area, or you can choose to use the tables along the walkway. No matter your choice, Fagoto Jazz Bar is meant to impress you with its quality music and atmosphere.
Santorini
Days 5–7 of 21 · 3 nightsSantorini in the middle – three nights for Oia's caldera, the Akrotiri ruins, Red and Black beaches, and a long winery afternoon in the south. The Fira-to-Oia walk on Day 1 is the trip's signature panorama.
White Pearl Cavalieri Santorini Imerovigli
Restored wine canavas on the caldera rim in Imerovigli, turned into suites.
9.8 Alternative places to stay
SantoriniDay 1
Kamari beach & Oia
Kamari beach
Kamari Beach is one of the most popular and most visited beach resorts in Santorini. It is located in the seaside village of Kamari. The beach is composed of black volcanic sand and is 5 kilometers long, among the 3 longest beaches in Santorini, with deep crystalline waters and a series of trees. It is fully organized with hundreds of sunbeds and umbrellas, showers, a lifeguard on duty and numerous facilities.
Oia
World’s most iconic sunset on this cliffside village of astounding beauty. Narrow alleys wind their way through whitewashed buildings adorned with blue-domed churches and vibrant bougainvillea, while the island’s caldera and the azure sea, stretching out as far as the eye can see, offer a dramatic backdrop to the scene. Visitors can explore the village's charming streets, lined with boutiques and cafes, and soak in the laid-back atmosphere. Oia was the first village in Greece to become a heritage site as its greatest part has been built below ground level partly hewn within the rock. As the sun sets, the sky transforms into a riot of colors, making for an unforgettable experience that will stay with visitors long after they've left this magical place.
Santorini Mou
A family taverna in Finikia, a few minutes' walk below Oia, where dinner comes with live Greek music almost every night – the owner straps on his guitar around nine and the singing runs late. Checked tablecloths, a flower-filled courtyard, lamb and fish done simply and well. Book a table; the garden fills fast in summer.
SantoriniDay 2
The Caldera Cruise & Ammoudi Bay
Santorini Caldera Cruise
A classic – Red Beach, White Beach, Hot Springs in Palia Kameni, Nea Kameni, swimming, snorkeling, volcanic bath (optional) and a greek meal with beer and wine included on this cruise on a modern catamaran yacht. Capture stunning panoramas of picturesque Santorini and its volcanic lagoon. Transfer from and to your hotel / vacation rental, as well as snorkeling equipment, also included. We will provide full details, and proceed to reservations if you wish, following your booking.
Ammoudi Bay
At the bottom of the scenic village of Oia, lies the charming, small port of Ammoudi. It is a beautiful, tiny cove with crystalline waters and fishing boats lying in the sea. Here there are no beaches, sand, sunbeds and umbrellas but you can have a distinctive experience by swimming from the dock. Nevertheless, it is preferable that you follow the path, past the taverns, that ends up in an awesome diving area with crystal clear waters.
Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna
Dinner in Ammoudi Bay is a Santorini ritual, and Dimitris is the taverna that does it best. Opened in 1989 by Dimitris and Joy, it sits right where the red cliff meets the water – tables close enough to the sea that the catch of the day arrives by boat a few metres away. The fish comes from the same local fishermen the kitchen has worked with for decades, grilled simply with lemon, good bread and cold Assyrtiko. Come for the golden hour, stay until the caldera lights fade.
SantoriniDay 3
Perissa, Pyrgos & the Wineries
Perissa beach
The beautiful Perissa Beach lies at the base of Mesa Vouno Mountain that separates Perissa from Kamari and on its top you can admire the eminent archaeological site of ancient Thera and a superb view. The scenery that the black lava sand along with the sandy sea bottom and the dark blue, crystal clear waters compose is impressive. It is one of the longest and most famous beaches in Santorini, a characteristic sight of the volcanic island. It is a fully organized, cosmopolitan beach with an abundance of comfy lounging chairs, umbrellas and other amenities, like lifeguards, showers and a playground.
Pyrgos
Pyrgos is a big village, with many mediaeval houses and noteworthy churches offering an excellent view of the island
Wine Tasting Tour
Volcanic soil, sea spray, and 3,500 years of winemaking – Santorini's vineyards produce whites unlike anywhere else. A half-day tour visits two or three estates, sampling Assyrtiko (crisp, mineral, electric), Nykteri (barrel-aged and honeyed), and Vinsanto (sun-dried grapes turned liquid amber). The vines grow pruned into low baskets – kouloura – to shield grapes from the Aegean wind. Santo Wines and Venetsanos have caldera-view terraces; Domaine Sigalas is the serious oenophile's pick. Most tours include local cheese and olive pairings. Book a sunset session if available – the caldera turns gold through a wine glass.
Metaxy Mas
In a hospitable and relaxing space, reminiscent of an island house porch, and an atmosphere full of the Aegean Sea's colors and aromas, you will savour excellent dishes inspired by the islands of Santorini and Creta. Enjoy cool Cretan salads with dakos (barley rusk) and caper, as well as krasotigania and pork from Creta. The friendly staff here uses fresh ingredients from the restaurant's kitchen garden, refreshing raki (the iconic grape-based pomace brandy of Crete) and handpicked wines to ensure that, upon leaving Metaxy Mas, you have a full stomach, and sweet memories!
Le Moustache Pool Lounge
Caldera-edge cocktail bar and pool lounge – daybeds by the infinity pool, a DJ that starts slow and builds into sunset, a cocktail menu that takes Santorini's volcanic produce seriously. For that one evening you don't want to cook dinner with the rest of the island, just order another round and watch the colour change.
Paros
Days 8–11 of 21 · 4 nightsFor many people Paros is the perfect Greek island. Not too small nor too big, with something for everyone. It is also strategically located as the first ferry port from Athens to the popular Cyclades islands and therefore a great place to access the mainland coming from the other direction. We like to stay in Naoussa on Paros which many say is like a small, cheaper version of Mykonos with a lively mix of tavernas, bars, and nightclubs as well as lovely whitewashed alleys full of great cafes and boutiques and gelati stores. The port town of Parikia is also nice and a little more affordable than Naoussa.
Agrabeli Paros
Cycladic studios set in a vineyard just behind Naoussa bay.
9.9 Alternative places to stay
ParosDay 1
Kolimbithres, Paros Park & Naoussa
Kolimbithres Beach
Kolimbithres is Paros's most distinctive beach – granite boulders sculpted by wind and water into small coves on a turquoise bay, each pocket of sand its own private spot. Best done as a morning beach before the boats come in.
Monastiri Beach
Spend a few hours at Paros Park – a historic nature reserve on the peninsula past Naoussa, with a lovely beach and beach club. Monastiri is the park's sheltered cove: calm, clear water inside the bay, walking trails out to the lighthouse, and an open-air cinema on summer nights.
Naoussa
Many say Naoussa is like a small, cheaper version of Mykonos – a lively mix of tavernas, bars, and nightclubs as well as lovely whitewashed alleys full of great cafes and boutiques and gelati stores. Sandy's pick for where to base yourself on Paros. Park outside the centre and walk in; the streets are too narrow for cars.
Venetian Castle of Naoussa
A half-submerged medieval fortress at the harbour's edge – Naoussa's most iconic silhouette and sunset vantage point.
Moraitis Winery
Visit Moraitis Winery in Naoussa – the island's landmark winery, run by the Moraitis family since 1910. The stone-built estate at the edge of town works Paros's own grapes, Monemvasia and Mandilaria, and the tasting room pours them alongside a tour of the old cellars. The courtyard under the vine pergola is the spot for a late-afternoon glass before Naoussa's tavernas.
Sigi Ikthios
You can't visit Naoussa without dining at one of the lively port restaurants – and Sigi Ikthios ("the silence of the fish") owns the old harbor's front row. Tables spill across the flagstones to the water, fishing boats tie up an arm's length away, and the menu is what came off them: grilled octopus, salt-baked fish, sea-urchin pasta. Book at sunset and let the evening run long.
Agosta Bar
Right on the old port of Naoussa, Agosta is where the evening lingers after dinner – cocktails and good music with the fishing boats bobbing a few metres away. Tables spill onto the quay, the crowd mixes locals with the well-dressed drift from the restaurants next door, and nobody is in a hurry. Start with a spritz at dusk and see where the night takes you; its immediate neighbours are worth a look too.
ParosDay 2
Parikia & the Church with the 100 Doors
Martselo Beach
Across the bay from Parikia, four kilometres by road or ten minutes on the small boat that crisscrosses the harbour. Fine pale sand and water that stays shin-deep for what feels like a hundred metres before deepening. Half organised (sunbeds, volleyball, beach bar), half unspoiled – pick your side. Geographic shelter from the meltemi means it stays calm even on windy days, which is why locals come here when the rest of the island is white-capping.
Parikia
The port town of Parikia is also nice and a little more affordable than Naoussa – and you can easily spend a day just wandering around and exploring. Whitewashed lanes wind back from a long seafront of cafes; the old Kastro quarter is built straight through with ancient marble column drums, and the windmill on the quay marks the spot where every Paros trip begins.
Panagia Ekatontapiliani
Aka The Church with the 100 Doors – Panagia Ekatontapiliani is one of the most important churches in Greece, and one of the oldest still in continuous use, with parts dating back to the 4th century. Legend counts ninety-nine doors found so far; the hundredth, they say, will open when Constantinople is Greek again. Quiet and cool inside; the icons and mosaics reward a slow visit. Free to enter; modest dress required.
Dionysos Garden Restaurant
In Parikia, Dionysos Garden Restaurant is truly lovely – hidden in the courtyard garden of an old house just off Market Street in the Old Town. Candle-lit tables under the pergola and the trees, mussels and octopus done properly, and the kind of family hospitality that has guests booking the next visit before they leave. Reserve ahead in season; the garden fills early.
ParosDay 3
Golden Beach, Lefkes & the Quarries
Golden Beach (Hrysi Akti)
A long, wind-blessed shore that hosts international windsurfing championships – Paros's sport beach with golden credentials.
Lefkes
The most beautiful mountain village on Paros – built amphitheatrically into a green valley, once the Ottoman capital.
Ancient Marble Quarries
Visit the once famous Marathi Marble Quarries – marble for the Venus de Milo and Napoleon's tombstone came from here. Pure, fine-grained and almost translucent, Parian marble was the stone of choice for most of the great classical sculpture. The tunnels, a quiet 15-minute drive inland, still bear chisel marks from antiquity.
Rada
The gastronomic concept of Gikas Xenakis, one of contemporary Greek cuisine's celebrated chefs, set on Agioi Anargyri beach a short walk from Naoussa centre. Modern interpretations of seasonal Greek ingredients in small-plate format; floor-to-ceiling glass framing the sunset. Limited tables and an intimate room – book early, and dress for the occasion. The wine list pairs Greek varietals with the menu.
ParosDay 4
Antiparos
Camping Beach
Legendary among alternative travellers and free spirits – a Cycladic beach icon where the dress code is strictly optional.
Cave of Antiparos
The oldest known cave in Greece – 45-million-year-old stalactites, Lord Byron's graffiti, and 411 steps into the earth.
Antiparos Town & Venetian Castle
A whitewashed village built within 15th-century fortress walls – where islanders still live in homes stacked upon each other.
Milos
Days 12–14 of 21 · 3 nightsMilos closes the islands – Sarakiniko's lunar geology, the pastel fishing village at Klima, and the all-day Kleftiko boat trip along the south coast. Book the Kleftiko day on Day 2 so Day 3 is the wind-buffer if you need it.
Cave Suites
Private-pool suites with wide sea views, built for quiet.
9.7 Alternative places to stay
MilosDay 1
Sarakiniko & Plaka
Sarakiniko Beach
Sarakiniko is Milos's signature – white volcanic rock sculpted by wind and sea into a lunar landscape on the island's north shore. No shade, no facilities; bring water and a hat, and come at sunset for soft light. Sandy's tip: the cliff jumps are visible from the path; admire from a safe distance.
Catacombs of Milos
One of the most important early-Christian monuments in the world – a 2nd-century underground burial complex carved into the volcanic hillside above Trypiti. Three connecting galleries, hundreds of arched tombs, and traces of original wall paintings. A short, atmospheric visit and an unexpected counterpoint to the island's beach reputation. Closed Tuesdays.
Plaka Village
Plaka is the chief town in Milos, a Greek island in the Cyclades group. It is perched on the top of large rock, overlooking the gulf of Milos. No cars can enter the village because of the narrow spaces between walls and buildings. Motorbikes, mopeds and the like are the only usable vehicles.
Plaka Castle (Venetian Castle of Milos)
Plaka Castle, often referred to as the “Venetian Castle of Milos,” is the last remaining artefact on the Greek Island of Milos, which bears testament to the ancient times of Venetian rule. Make the short climb to the top of the mountain from the small town of Plaka below, and embrace the spectacular 360-degree views of the entire island, stretching as far as the eye can see. There is no better way to experience the entirety of Milos than here, and a visit is certainly a must-do for anyone traveling to the island.
O Hamos Tavern
A garden courtyard buried in bougainvillea, clay plates with the restaurant's name fired into them, and kleftiko lamb that falls apart before you touch it. O Hamos is the kind of place that makes you wonder why restaurants anywhere else try so hard. The kitchen uses milk from the owners' own goats, cheese from their farm, and whatever the sea delivered that morning. The cheese pies are legendary; the fried artichokes appear only in season and disappear fast. Handwritten menu, no pretense, cash preferred. Just outside Adamas, a short walk from the port – arrive early or book ahead, because everyone on the island knows this place.
MilosDay 2
The Kleftiko Cruise & Adamas
Daily Cruise to Kleftiko - Polyaigos
The Kleftiko boat day is the trip's highlight if the wind allows – a full day on a small boat along Milos's south coast, anchoring at sea caves and arches the pirates used as hideouts. Book early in the trip so you have a buffer day if the captain cancels for weather.
Adamas
Milos's port town and lively heart – where the ferries dock, the restaurants line the waterfront, and the evening passegiata happens. The Mining Museum on the eastern edge tells the volcanic-island story; the small chapels and the inland streets reward an hour of wandering. A natural base for the easy day in the middle of the trip.
Mikros Apoplous
In Adamas don't miss Mikros Apoplous – right on the waterfront and one of the best seafood restaurants in the Cyclades islands. With a chilled cabinet of fresh seafood to choose from, including lobster and fish, you will be amazed at the value you get for your money here. Not to mention the incredible views, especially at sunset!
MilosDay 3
Paliochori, Fyriplaka & Pollonia
Paliochori Beach
Volcanic colors you won't find on any other shoreline – dark sand giving way to red and yellow cliffs that still vent heat from below. Paliochori stretches across three coves on Milos's south coast, each with its own character. The central section is where beachside tavernas grill fish over geothermally heated sand – order the baked tomatoes, cooked in the earth itself. Hot mineral springs bubble up through the seafloor in the shallows, warming patches of water to almost bath temperature. The multicolored rock formations behind the beach shift from ochre to green to rust, proof of the island's volcanic restlessness. Sunbeds available in the main cove; the western section is quieter.
Fyriplaka Beach
Firiplaka with its towering volcanic cliffs, snow-gray fine sand, white pebbles and shallow turquoise waters is situated between the beaches of Provatas and Tsigrado. The extensive beach has umbrellas, sunbeds and a bar hut. There is also a cave under a huge rock in the water near the shore carved out of a volcano a long time ago. Access to the beach is possible by your own vehicle, taxi, bus or even by boat which goes around the island, starting from the port of Adamas. While most of the road is asphalt, the last part of it is a gravel paved driveway.
Pollonia
Pollonia or Apollonia is a seaside village in the north-eastern part of the island of Milos, Greece. It is the second harbor of Milos island after Adamantas and it has taken its name from the temple of Apollo that existed to the east of the settlement.
Kostantakis Winery
Sample local wines at Kostantakis – a cave winery outside Pollonia where the barrels age in galleries carved into the volcanic rock. The tasting flights move through Milos's indigenous Assyrtiko and Mandilaria, paired with local cheeses and the sort of vineyard view the tour brochures try and fail to capture. Book ahead in summer.
Yialos Restaurant
Tables on the sand, feet in the pebbles, the fishing boats of Pollonia bobbing a few meters away – Yialos is where seafood and setting conspire perfectly. Chef Achilleas Kamateris trained across Europe but cooks Aegean: raw fish preparations, grilled catch of the day, and creative plates that stay rooted in Cycladic simplicity. The sunset from the beachfront tables is an event in itself. Twenty years in, still the best restaurant in Pollonia and arguably the best seafood on the island. Northeast tip of Milos, about 10km from Adamas. Reservations are non-negotiable in summer.
Athens
Days 15–21 of 21 · 7 nightsSix nights in Athens – the Acropolis pair (rock + museum) on Day 2, the Riviera (Cape Sounio + Vouliagmeni) on Day 4, the Stavros Niarchos cultural centre + Kerameikos on Day 3, and three open days to swap in Meteora or Delphi if you have the energy. End at a rooftop bar before the morning flight out.
Noble Suites
A 1901 neoclassical house under the Acropolis – four suites of marble and old wood.
9.7 Alternative places to stay
AthensDay 1
Plaka & Monastiraki
The Ultimate Food Tour
Plaka
Plaka, also known as the "neighbourhood of the gods," is the oldest neighbourhood of Athens. Walking on its paved narrow streets you get the feeling that you are travelling back in time. The origin of the name of the neighbourhood is unknown, although theories abound. According to popular belief, Plaka was named after a slab of stone that was found near the church of Ayios Georgios Alexandrias, in the vicinity of the theatre of Dionysos. The beautiful neoclassical style colour of the houses, the architecture, the well-kept gardens, and the beauty and atmosphere of the neighbourhood are enchanting. In Plaka the air you breathe is different; it is lighter, cleaner, and fragrant, like a gift of the gods. When you visit Plaka you should bring a map, because you might get lost in the labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys. In Adrianou Street, the central street of the neighbourhood, as in other streets in the area, you will find shops selling traditional products, souvenirs, Greek folk art and handicrafts, etc.
Monastiraki
A distinctive old Athens area, with narrow, irregularly criss-crossing streets, and small buildings, characteristic of Ottoman and to some extent Byzantine urban planning. On the outdoor stands of street sellers, or the small shops on the central roads you can find anything, such as shoes, clothes, old and new furniture, old books and magazines, souvenirs, jewellery, hats, bronze objects, new and used records and CDs and traditional Greek instruments (bouzouki, touberleki). Shopping or walking in Monastiraki is an unforgettable experience. You will be stunned by the variety and quality of things you can buy in the market
Central Municipal Athens Market
Varvakeios Municipal (Central) Market is a rectangular building (1886) with a large covered court. There are a total of 73 food stalls (meat market, fish market, vegetable market and groceries) in the interior and exterior sections. The market is covered with a glass and metal roof and has symmetrical windows. You will find here small restaurants (eating-houses) with fresh food, attracting Athenians especially after midnight. There is a small grove on the square (Varvakeios Square) across the street.
Kostas
Amazing gyros – a tiny grill on Agia Irini Square that has been doing pork souvlaki the same way for decades. A handful of stools, a queue that moves fast, and the smell of charcoal two streets away. Grab one (or two) in the pita, open the wax paper on the square, and you've understood why this is the Athens food pilgrimage.
Grande Bretagne Roof Bar
The rooftop bar of the GB Roof Garden restaurant, crowning the Hotel Grande Bretagne on Syntagma Square. Take a stool at the marble counter or a terrace table at golden hour – the Acropolis floodlit across the rooftops, a list of some fifty cocktails, and the calmest view in the city centre. Open daily 13:00–02:00; smart casual, and book ahead in season.
AthensDay 2
The Acropolis & its museum
Acropolis
After three weeks the Acropolis still earns its place. Go at 8am opening (skip the cruise crowds) or the last 90 minutes before closing (8 pm in summer, soft light). The Acropolis Museum sits 200 metres below the south slope; do the rock first while you have energy.
Acropolis Museum
It is one of the most important contemporary works of architecture in Athens. Its construction, designed by architects B. Tschumi and Mih. Fotiadis was completed in 2007. Standing only 300m away from the Acropolis, its total area covers 21,000 sq.m, while it offers a display area of 14,000 sq.m. It is made of steel, glass and concrete; it uses natural light efficiently so that its 4,000 exhibits would show off. The last level (The Parthenon room) has the dimensions and the direction of the Parthenon and it has been rotated by 23 degrees in relation to the rest of the building so that the visitor would have an immediate view of the monument. The surrounding area, visible from the glass floor of the ground level, functions as an openair museum-excavation. The main entrance is on Dionyssiou Areopagitou Street. In addition, the imposing Weiller building stands in the vicinity. Having been built by German architect W. Von Weiller, it combines Byzantine style masonry and neoclassical decorative patterns. Initially it was used as a military hospital and later as police unit headquarters, whereas since 1987 it houses the Acropolis Research Centre
Ancient Agora
The archaeological area of the ancient Agora is located on the foothills of the Acropolis, near Thission Metro Station. In antiquity, the Agora was not solely a commercial centre. It was also an important political, cultural and religious centre. In the area of the agora were located administrative buildings, temples, public services and courts. The Athenians gathered here every day to buy and sell their goods, learn the current news, criticise the government, exchange ideas, or engage in discussion. The area was settled in the Neolithic age. The monuments located there were built in various historical periods: from the classical age to the 11th century AD. The church of Ayioi Apostoloi was built in the 11th century
Temple of Olympian Zeus
According to the geographer Pausanias, the temple of Olympian Zeus was founded by Deukalionas, a mythical ancestor of the Greeks. In the age of tyranny, circa 515 BC, Peisistratos the younger grandson of the tyrant Peisistratos, attempted to replace the old temple with a new, more impressive temple. The tyranny, however, was abolished and construction work was terminated. The construction of the new temple was later assigned to the Roman architect Decimus Cossutius by the king of Syria Antiochus IV, Epiphanes. Antiochus died in 163 BC and the construction of the temple was once again abandoned. The structure did not have a roof and pediment. The construction of the temple, which ranks among the biggest in antiquity, was completed in 131 AD by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. It is of Corinthian order (110m in length and approximately 44m in width), three rows of eight columns at the narrow sides and two rows of twenty columns at its long sides. Inside the temple there was a gold and ivory statue of Zeus which does not exist today.
Lithos Taverna
Tucked into a Psirri side street, Lithos does my favourite Moussaka in Athens – layered the way your grandmother would approve, sitting in front of you within minutes of ordering. The room is stone-walled and unfussy, the wine comes in carafes, and the kitchen turns out the Greek classics with just enough finesse to make the regulars regulars.
AthensDay 3
Meteora
Meteora Tour
A guided trip out of Athens – a 3.5-hour drive into central Greece to the sandstone pillars where six active monasteries sit at the top of the cliffs. Up to four monastery visits, the Cave of Theopetra on the descent, and the photographs people put on the front cover of Greece guidebooks. The shorter version is a long single-day round-trip; the better version is overnight in Kalambaka so you catch sunrise and sunset over the pillars and aren't in a car for 7 hours straight. Sandy's tour operator pick is [Cattaxi](https://www.greecetravelsecrets.com/meteora-tour/) – private driver from your Athens hotel, optional licensed guide for the monastery walks, lunch and admissions on you.
AthensDay 4
Kerameikos & Filopappos Hill
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center
The Stavros Niarchos Foundation is Athens's newest landmark – Renzo Piano's opera house and library complex south of the centre, with rooftop gardens overlooking the Saronic Gulf. Free to enter the grounds; the canal-side bar is the spot for an afternoon coffee before walking back through the southern neighbourhoods.
Kerameikos
The ancient Kerameikos was located in the northwestern outskirts of Athens. It was partly enclosed by, and partly beyond, the walls that divide the area of the excavation. In the centre of the archaeological site are the two best known arches of ancient Athens, the Dipylon where the Panathenaic procession would start and the Sacred Arch, where the sacred way would begin and the Elefsinian Mysteries procession would pass through. In the vicinity of the arches was the most ancient and the biggest cemetery of Attica. Moreover it was the place of burial of citizens who were honoured by the city of Athens. According to the geographer Pausanias, the location was named after Keramos. However, the place was most likely named after the neighbourhood of the kerameis (potters). (The definition of Kerameikos is something related to ceramics or potters). The neighbourhood of the kerameis was established on the banks of the river Iridanos. You can see the riverbed in the archaeological area. The ancient Demos of Kerameikos covered a large area. Only part of it has been unearthed in excavations. It is thought that the area of the Kerameikos was bounded by the northwestern perimeter of the Agora on one side and the copse that was named after the hero Akademos, on the other side.
Filopappos Hill
Well worth a visit any time of the year. A walk at Philopappou Hill is a fascinating experience: you will find here a magnificent park, important monuments such as the alleged Prisons of Socrates, the Tombs of Kimon, the ancient Koilis street, which was a mercantile boulevard with shops and houses, Iroo Mousaiou, the Philopappus Monument and the spectacular view of the Parthenon and the Acropolis.
Yiasemi
Yiasemi is a café in Athens, Greece on busy Mnisikleous -a steep, stepped, pedestrian street in the Plaka area that leads down from the Acropolis and is lined with cafés and restaurants. It feels like one of the more characterful offerings on the street, with two separate indoor spaces, seating outside on the steps (of course), tons of plants and flowers, and adorable mismatched furnishings and décor. There's a selection of meze and other dishes but your best bet is to grab a tea or Greek coffee and something sweet to snack on – one of the homemade pies or the honey-drenched, big-enough-to-share baklava. Yiasemi is a nice mix of locals and tourists, buzzy and busy without feeling rushed, and offers superb people-watching
AthensDay 5
Athenian Riviera
Asteras beach
This beach is one of the classics of the Athenian Riviera, and Astir Beach provides literally everything you might want for a day by the seaside. Here is where Athina Onassis and Brigitte Bardot used to swim, while today celebrities from all over the world prefer it for the hundreds of choices provided, as well as the quality of its services. Squishy sun chairs for relaxing under the umbrella, full showers for rinsing off afterwards, a snack bar for nibbling, free wifi, organised beach sports… you can relax and feel sure that all your needs will be catered for. A little button on your sun chair means you can order munchies without even getting up. The beach can get crowded, especially at the weekends. There is a ticket for the entrance and the parking is also charged.
Lake Vouliagmeni
Vouliagmeni Lake, in the heart of the Athenian Riviera, is the hidden treasure of Attica's nature. Situated on an idyllic landscape, this rare geological phenomenon is waiting to be discovered. The lake's brackish waters which are continuously replenished both by the sea and the underground thermal springs offer a natural and unique thermal spa experience.
Temple of Poseidon Sounio
The temple at Cape Sounio is the dramatic finish to the Riviera day – perched on a cliff over the Aegean at the southernmost tip of Attica, dedicated to Poseidon. Arrive 90 minutes before sunset for the soft light. Combine with a swim at Asteras or Lake Vouliagmeni on the way out.
AthensDay 6
Anafiotika & the Roman Agora
Roman Agora
The Roman Agora (in the Plaka area) was an architectural complex, built between 19 and 11 B.C., consisting of a large rectangular court surrounded by colonnades (stoas). Behind the stoas were various shops.
Hadrian's Arch
Following the construction of the temple of Zeus, the Athenians, in 131 AD, in honour of Emperor Hadrian, built an arch on the northwestern perimeter of the temple. The monument is 18m tall and 13m wide while the arch, built of Pentelic marble, bears two inscriptions on the architrave over the arch. One inscription, facing the Acropolis and the old town (facing west), says: "This is Athens, the city of Theseus". The other inscription, facing the sanctuary and an extension of Athens constructed by Hadrian, (facing east), says: "This is the city of Hadrian, not Theseus".
Anafiotika
On the foothills of the Acropolis, has the charm of a beautiful island village. It was built in the mid 19th century by the renowned builders of the Aegean island of Anafi, who were invited to construct the palace of the first king of the Hellenes, Otto. Feeling nostalgic for their birthplace in their long stay in Athens they recreated it in the upper area of Plaka. They built small, whitewashed houses, reproducing the architectural style of their village. We recommend that you visit Anafiotika, the neighbourhood of the Anafiotes
Cookoovaya
A collective kitchen of five top Athens chefs – Greek ingredients reread with tasting-menu craft, no ceremony. Cookoovaya sits in Pangrati, an easy walk from the Panathenaic Stadium. The name is Athenian shorthand for "little owl" – Athena's bird, the city's emblem. The kitchen cooks across the country's pantries: Cretan goat with smoked yoghurt, raw fish with seaweed, slow-braised lamb that arrives unhurried. The room is unfussy; the wine list goes deep on small Greek producers. Sit on the terrace if the night is warm and order across the menu – small plates are how this kitchen wants to be read. Michelin Guide and World's 50 Best Discovery listed; book ahead, and expect the bill to match the pedigree.
AthensDay 7
Panathenaic Stadium & Lycabettus
National Garden
The National Garden, open from dawn to sunset, is an oasis in the centre of the city. It has a total area of 160,000 m2. Some five hundred different kinds of plants, bushes and trees from various locations around the world are grown here (in total, it has 7,000 trees and 40,000 bushes). At the same time, it comprises an important natural life reserve in Athens as many different species of birds, hedgehogs, turtles, ducks and even bats are gathered here. The National Garden – which was formerly the palace garden - was laid out from 1838-1860. There are six entrances: at Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Irodou Attikou Str, Vasilissis Amalias Avenue, and two entrances connecting the National Garden to the Zappeion. You will also find here a small pond, a small zoo, the Botanical Museum, a traditional café, a children's library, a playground, various monuments of antiquity, and the busts of important personalities of modern Greece (among others, politicians and authors).
Panathenaic Stadium
Panathenaikon [Panathenaic] Stadium, a remarkable construction, was made of white marble. The horseshoe shaped stadium faces the National Garden. In 330 BC a stadium made of wood was built at this location. Herodes Atticus constructed a marble edifice, which was the model for the edifice of the stadium that stands today. It was used as a space for athletic competitions, which took place during the Panathenaea festival. The stadium that stands today has a capacity of approx. 60,000 spectators. It was built in 1869-1870 and it was the venue of the first Olympic Games in modern history (1896). Surrounding the stadium is the wooded Ardittos Hill, where locals love to go for a walk.
Lycabettus Hill
It is a forest in the heart of the city, and among the Athenians' favourite places for hiking or relaxing in the local cafés and restaurants. According to mythology, goddess Athena wanted her temple in Acropolis to be closer to heaven. One stormy night she went to Mount Penteli, and took a large rock with the purpose of placing it on the existing rock. As she transported the rock, two black birds approached her, bringing her bad news regarding something she had to take care of immediately. In her rage and haste, the rock fell in the centre of Athens. The rock, which is 278 metres high, is located in the centre of Athens. In ancient times the hill was covered by lush vegetation and on its top stood a temple dedicated to Zeus. By the time Athens was liberated from the Turkish occupation, Lycabettus Hill had no trees at all. Reforestation started in 1880 and was completed in 1915. Don't miss the view of the Acropolis and of the entire city extending up to the sea. You will also enjoy walking along narrow paths all the way to the top of the hill.
Couleur Locale
Hidden in the back streets not far from Monastiraki Square, you will find what is a very discreet entrance via a small arcade of antiques and bric-a brac shops. Using the elevator towards the 3rd floor, a large magical rooftop terrace appears, illuminated in blue and packed with a fashionable crowd, gathered over small candlelit tables. Couleur Locale's renowned cocktails together with the imposing hill of the Acropolis justify why this place is so popular among locals.