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3 Weeks in Greece
A trip by Sandy PapasGreece Travel Secrets3 Weeks in Greece
If you are lucky enough to be planning 3 weeks in Greece then you are about to embark on the trip of a lifetime. This itinerary covers the classic destinations of Athens and Santorini and the beautiful lesser-known islands of Paros and Milos as well as Crete. This allows visitors to see the most iconic sites Greece has to offer as well as a few hidden gems too.
Athens
Days 1–4 of 22 · 4 nightsAthens is the capital of Greece and home to some of the most iconic and important historical sites and monuments in the world. Apart from the many things you can do in Athens including great shopping, incredible food, and all the ancient sites there is also great nightlife with a plethora of bars, tavernas, and clubs to choose from. There are a lot of new hotels and restaurants many with incredible rooftop views, especially of the Acropolis. The Acropolis Museum is world-class and needs to be enjoyed either before or after you visit the Acropolis. Day 4: Meteora – private tour or train trip. Even if you only have 1 night to spare on your trip to Greece you will not regret the effort to visit Meteora for a moment!
Noble Suites
A 1901 neoclassical house under the Acropolis – four suites of marble and old wood.
9.7 Alternative places to stay
AthensDay 1
The food tour & the Acropolis
The Ultimate Food Tour
Acropolis – guided
Acropolis Museum
It is one of the most important contemporary works of architecture in Athens. Its construction, designed by architects B. Tschumi and Mih. Fotiadis was completed in 2007. Standing only 300m away from the Acropolis, its total area covers 21,000 sq.m, while it offers a display area of 14,000 sq.m. It is made of steel, glass and concrete; it uses natural light efficiently so that its 4,000 exhibits would show off. The last level (The Parthenon room) has the dimensions and the direction of the Parthenon and it has been rotated by 23 degrees in relation to the rest of the building so that the visitor would have an immediate view of the monument. The surrounding area, visible from the glass floor of the ground level, functions as an openair museum-excavation. The main entrance is on Dionyssiou Areopagitou Street. In addition, the imposing Weiller building stands in the vicinity. Having been built by German architect W. Von Weiller, it combines Byzantine style masonry and neoclassical decorative patterns. Initially it was used as a military hospital and later as police unit headquarters, whereas since 1987 it houses the Acropolis Research Centre
Lithos Taverna
Tucked into a Psirri side street, Lithos does my favourite Moussaka in Athens – layered the way your grandmother would approve, sitting in front of you within minutes of ordering. The room is stone-walled and unfussy, the wine comes in carafes, and the kitchen turns out the Greek classics with just enough finesse to make the regulars regulars.
AthensDay 2
The Ancient Agora, Plaka & Monastiraki
Ancient Agora
The archaeological area of the ancient Agora is located on the foothills of the Acropolis, near Thission Metro Station. In antiquity, the Agora was not solely a commercial centre. It was also an important political, cultural and religious centre. In the area of the agora were located administrative buildings, temples, public services and courts. The Athenians gathered here every day to buy and sell their goods, learn the current news, criticise the government, exchange ideas, or engage in discussion. The area was settled in the Neolithic age. The monuments located there were built in various historical periods: from the classical age to the 11th century AD. The church of Ayioi Apostoloi was built in the 11th century
Plaka
Plaka, also known as the "neighbourhood of the gods," is the oldest neighbourhood of Athens. Walking on its paved narrow streets you get the feeling that you are travelling back in time. The origin of the name of the neighbourhood is unknown, although theories abound. According to popular belief, Plaka was named after a slab of stone that was found near the church of Ayios Georgios Alexandrias, in the vicinity of the theatre of Dionysos. The beautiful neoclassical style colour of the houses, the architecture, the well-kept gardens, and the beauty and atmosphere of the neighbourhood are enchanting. In Plaka the air you breathe is different; it is lighter, cleaner, and fragrant, like a gift of the gods. When you visit Plaka you should bring a map, because you might get lost in the labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys. In Adrianou Street, the central street of the neighbourhood, as in other streets in the area, you will find shops selling traditional products, souvenirs, Greek folk art and handicrafts, etc.
Monastiraki
A distinctive old Athens area, with narrow, irregularly criss-crossing streets, and small buildings, characteristic of Ottoman and to some extent Byzantine urban planning. On the outdoor stands of street sellers, or the small shops on the central roads you can find anything, such as shoes, clothes, old and new furniture, old books and magazines, souvenirs, jewellery, hats, bronze objects, new and used records and CDs and traditional Greek instruments (bouzouki, touberleki). Shopping or walking in Monastiraki is an unforgettable experience. You will be stunned by the variety and quality of things you can buy in the market
Kostas
Amazing gyros – a tiny grill on Agia Irini Square that has been doing pork souvlaki the same way for decades. A handful of stools, a queue that moves fast, and the smell of charcoal two streets away. Grab one (or two) in the pita, open the wax paper on the square, and you've understood why this is the Athens food pilgrimage.
Grande Bretagne Roof Bar
The rooftop bar of the GB Roof Garden restaurant, crowning the Hotel Grande Bretagne on Syntagma Square. Take a stool at the marble counter or a terrace table at golden hour – the Acropolis floodlit across the rooftops, a list of some fifty cocktails, and the calmest view in the city centre. Open daily 13:00–02:00; smart casual, and book ahead in season.
AthensDay 3
Ermou, Syntagma & the National Garden
Ermou Street
Athens' great shopping mile – the marble-paved pedestrian street running from Syntagma Square down toward Monastiraki. High-street flagships and old family shops stand side by side, and halfway down the tiny Byzantine church of Kapnikarea sits marooned mid-stream while the crowd parts around it. Best saved for the end of the trip: shop last, and carry nothing around the islands.
Syntagma Square
Syntagma Square is Athens' central square. The name of the square is derived from an uprising on 3 September 1843, of the people and the guard of Athens before the then Royal Palace building, (what is now the Parliament), demanding that King Otto grant a Constitution (Syntagma means Constitution). Syntagma Square and Omonia Square are the two central locations of the city. You should not be surprised when you ask directions if people refer to Syntagma square. Plaka, Acropolis, the Cathedral, the National Garden, Ermou Str, and Kolonaki, are located in the vicinity of Syntagma Square. You will find fashionable cafes and small restaurants located here. The square is busy around the clock. At the kiosks you will find miscellaneous items, ranging from aspirin to souvenirs, newspapers and foreign magazines.
Greek Parliament
Dominating Syntagma Square, the building was the residence of the first king of Greece Otto. The building was constructed from 1836 to 1842. George A', who succeeded Otto on the throne, also resided in the palace. During his reign, two successive fires destroyed the building, making it unsuitable for use as a royal residence. In 1924 the government decided to situate Parliament in the building. Reconstruction work was completed in 1934. The interior was redesigned by architect A. Kriezis. In Parliament you will find national treasures, such as the first Greek Constitution, a collection of valuable paintings and a large library.
National Garden
The National Garden, open from dawn to sunset, is an oasis in the centre of the city. It has a total area of 160,000 m2. Some five hundred different kinds of plants, bushes and trees from various locations around the world are grown here (in total, it has 7,000 trees and 40,000 bushes). At the same time, it comprises an important natural life reserve in Athens as many different species of birds, hedgehogs, turtles, ducks and even bats are gathered here. The National Garden – which was formerly the palace garden - was laid out from 1838-1860. There are six entrances: at Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Irodou Attikou Str, Vasilissis Amalias Avenue, and two entrances connecting the National Garden to the Zappeion. You will also find here a small pond, a small zoo, the Botanical Museum, a traditional café, a children's library, a playground, various monuments of antiquity, and the busts of important personalities of modern Greece (among others, politicians and authors).
Athinaikon
An Athens institution since 1932, Athinaikon is where the city goes for proper ouzomezedes – shrimp croquettes, fried smelt, mussels saganaki – on marble tables under old photographs. It moved premises with its regulars over the decades and never lost the habit of doing simple things properly. Order a carafe of ouzo and a spread of small plates; service is brisk, portions honest, the bill kinder than the neighbourhood suggests. Between Syntagma and Monastiraki, it is the natural dinner after the Evzones' changing of the guard.
360 Cocktail Bar
On the roof above Monastiraki Square, 360 earns its name – the terrace looks straight across the rooftops to the Acropolis, floodlit after dusk. Come at golden hour, take a seat at the rail, and watch the city switch on below with a well-made cocktail in hand. It fills up fast for sunset (book ahead in summer); the view does the heavy lifting and the drinks keep up.
AthensDay 4
Meteora
Meteora Tour
A guided trip out of Athens – a 3.5-hour drive into central Greece to the sandstone pillars where six active monasteries sit at the top of the cliffs. Up to four monastery visits, the Cave of Theopetra on the descent, and the photographs people put on the front cover of Greece guidebooks. The shorter version is a long single-day round-trip; the better version is overnight in Kalambaka so you catch sunrise and sunset over the pillars and aren't in a car for 7 hours straight. Sandy's tour operator pick is [Cattaxi](https://www.greecetravelsecrets.com/meteora-tour/) – private driver from your Athens hotel, optional licensed guide for the monastery walks, lunch and admissions on you.
Chania
Days 5–8 of 22 · 4 nightsCrete is the biggest island in Greece and home to 650,000 people, so we usually recommend at least a week, if not two. Chania is one of the most popular places to stay in Crete, and also one of the most charming. It has a beautiful Old Town, wrapped around an equally picturesque harbor where you’ll feel like you’ve been transported back in time. Here, you’ll find plenty of excellent restaurants, bars, and shops and you’ll see the strong fourteenth-century influence of groups including the Ottomans and the Egyptians as you wander the harbor and the narrow streets and alleys. This all means it is one of the busiest places in Crete, so you should be prepared for some crowds, especially in the summer. However, this only adds to the bustling atmosphere and it’s possible to head further out to get some respite from the crowds.
Icarus Hotel Chania
A polished beachside stay in Kalamaki, a short drive from the old harbour.
9.3 Alternative places to stay
ChaniaDay 1
The Venetian Harbor & the Old Town
Old Venetian Harbor
Dating from the 14th century, the old harbor is ringed by a promenade lined with seafood eateries and cafés; it buzzes with visitors in summer, and is totally enchanting by night. As you wander to the east of the old harbor, you'll pass by the small mosque, erected by the Ottoman Turks after they took Chania in 1645. Today it serves as a small art gallery. Beyond the mosque, stand the arsenals, where the Venetians repaired their galleys, and a yachting marina. This entire stretch of coast is protected by a breakwater, and on its tip stands a lighthouse-it was designed by an Egyptian architect in 1839 and is strangely reminiscent of a minaret. On the point across the water from the lighthouse stands the Maritime Museum and the Firkas Fortress.
Old Town
One of the best things to do in Chania is wander through the maze of narrow, pedestrian-only streets in the historic old town. An architectural style jumps out at you around every corner. Shops lining the streets and stairways sell souvenirs, and cute restaurants and cafés are tucked into shady patios. As you walk around, you'll come across four distinct areas, each with its own look and feel: Kastelli is hilly and quite old with very narrow, twisty walkways. If you come across a group of tourists, it's often too tight to pass. Topanas is just back from the old port and has narrow roadways. The Jewish District is easily identified by its wider streets. The Splantzia District has the greatest number of outdoor cafés and restaurants, mostly located around a huge plane tree in front of the Church of St. Nicolas.
Pallas
Pallas boasts modern, quirky styles that are characterized by bright areas with sofas, wooden tables and bars, and a luxurious sense of comfort. Whether you choose to sit inside, or you prefer the tables outside, overlooking the sea, our music -electro, lounge, classic soul & funk- will accompany you, completing your experience and creating the ideal environment in which to enjoy our delicious food.
ChaniaDay 2
Balos lagoon & Falasarna
Balos beach
A pink-sand lagoon at the far north-western tip of Crete – and yes, the photos do not lie. Most people reach it by boat from Kissamos (about an hour) and combine it with a stop at the pirate islet of Gramvousa; the cliff-top hike down is the alternative for the energetic. Bring shoes you can walk in shallow water with.
Falasarna beach
Falassarna beach is not only one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece, but has also been voted the best beach in Crete and one of the 10 best beaches in Europe! It is a huge bay which actually consists of 5 exotic beaches. Falassarna beach has pink sand, cyan-hued water, and an unreal landscape. The main beach of Falassarna is named Pahia Ammos and stretches for 1 km. Thanks to its huge size, this beach almost never gets crowded, so it’s a top choice for those who seek freedom! In Pahia Ammos you can find facilities, such as umbrellas, a canteen, a beach volley court, and water sports facilities, for the water sport fanatics!
Koukouvaya
A hilltop café above Chania – Cretan coffee, warm bougatsa, and the bay laid out below in a single sweep. Koukouvaya sits on the Profitis Ilias hill, looking down over Halepa and the old harbour. The drill is simple: Cretan coffee or a freddo, a slice of warm bougatsa or galaktoboureko, and a chair on the terrace. Mornings smell of butter and orange peel; late afternoons hold the light until the sun drops behind the lighthouse. It's unpolished on purpose – the kind of place locals use as a meeting point, not a destination. Cash and card both work. Best paired with a slow walk back into town, downhill all the way.
ChaniaDay 3
The Samaria Gorge
Samaria Gorge
The full sixteen-kilometre walk down the Samaria Gorge is one of the great Cretan days – start at Omalos before 09:00, finish at Agia Roumeli on the south coast, ferry back to Sougia or Chora Sfakion, bus back over the mountains. Plan a full day; arrive at your Chania hotel with sore legs and the feeling of having earned dinner.
Tamam
A Cretan kitchen inside a converted Ottoman hammam – the old town's most reliable table for over forty years. Tamam tucks into Zampeliou, one of the narrow lanes climbing from the harbour into the old town. The room is the original 19th-century bath, low domed ceilings and arched alcoves, candle-warm at night. The food is Cretan with Levantine and Anatolian threads pulled through – eggplant slow-cooked with yoghurt, lamb with cumin and pomegranate, fava with caramelised onions. The menu is long, the portions generous, the wine list well-priced. Vegetarians eat very well here. Reservations are smart in high season, and the back tables in the vaulted room are worth asking for. A short stagger from the Venetian harbour when dinner's done.
ChaniaDay 4
Elafonisi's pink sand
Elafonisi beach
The eternal rival of Balos competing for the prize "the best beach of Crete", Elafonisi is one of the most famous and upvoted beaches in Chania, which stands out for its exotic setting! Elafonisi is basically a sandy peninsula, with many beaches, both organized and unorganized. The eastern part of the beach is organized, thus more crowded, but there are also many quiet coves that reward the traveler with privacy and serenity. The sand in Elafonisi beach is fine and white (pinkish is some parts!), the water is turquoise and shallow, while the landscape is exotic and unbelievably beautiful. What else could one possibly ask for? Keep in mid that Elafonisi is a protected natural reserve, where many plants thrive and rare animal species find shelter.
Fagotto Jazz Bar
Located on a backstreet right behind the Venetian harbor, Fogotto is a romantic jazz bar ideal for those of you looking for a quiet night out. If you decide to spend your night here, you will love the incredible romantic ambiance, the large variety of drinks, and attentive staff. You can sit inside the cozy and air-conditioned bar area, or you can choose to use the tables along the walkway. No matter your choice, Fagoto Jazz Bar is meant to impress you with its quality music and atmosphere.
Rethymno
Days 9–10 of 22 · 2 nightsTwo nights in Rethymno on the way east – the Old Town and the Fortezza, Arkadi Monastery in the hills – before the ferry to Santorini, which leaves from Heraklion port. If you have any spare days add them to Crete! The most charming part of Rethymnon is the old town characterized by its Venetian and Ottoman architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and vibrant atmosphere. Settle in at your hotel and spend your first afternoon exploring the Old Town and Venetian Harbor. Catch the sunset at the Fortezza Fortress and cocktails at Home Seaside. Visit the Archaeological Museum of Rethymnon to learn more about the area’s ancient history.
Where Sandy stayed
Rimondi Boutique Hotel
Her pick in the Venetian backstreets of the old town.
9.1 Alternative places to stay
RethymnoDay 1
The Fortezza & the Old Harbor
Old Venetian Harbor
Sandy's favourite stretch in town. Walk out along the breakwater to the Egyptian lighthouse at the end of the harbour – the view back across the old town and the Fortezza is the best in Rethymno, especially at sunset.
Fortezza
Venice's northernmost outpost – the Fortezza commands the headland at the top of the old town. The walls are largely intact; inside, the small mosque from the later Ottoman period sits next to the remains of a Venetian cathedral. Go in late afternoon for the soft light over the Cretan Sea.
Archaeological Museum of Rethymno
Housed in a former Venetian prison just below the Fortezza, the museum gathers Minoan, Mycenaean and Roman finds from the surrounding prefecture – gold jewellery from Eleftherna, marble portraits, painted sarcophagi, and the small bronze figurines that turn up across the Cretan highlands. A focused, two-hour visit that grounds the rest of the trip; the courtyard café is a quiet pause after.
Avli
A 16th-century Venetian courtyard, 460 Greek wines, and Cretan cooking refined over three decades. Avli means "courtyard" in Greek, and everything here revolves around it – orange trees, bougainvillea overhead, stone arches framing the sky. Inside the renovated mansion, a barrel-vaulted dining room sets the winter mood. The kitchen takes island ingredients and applies fine-dining precision without sacrificing soul: mushrooms with cheese mousse, goat marinated in thyme honey, herb-crusted lamb. The wine cellar doubles as a destination in itself. Reservations essential, especially for courtyard tables.
RethymnoDay 2
Arkadi Monastery & the Neratze Mosque
Arkadi Monastery
Crete's most storied monastery – Venetian baroque behind fortress walls, a symbol of Cretan defiance. In 1866, hundreds of Cretans besieged here chose to ignite their own gunpowder rather than surrender, a sacrifice that made Arkadi a byword for freedom across Europe. The katholikon's honey-coloured facade, with its twin belfries and Corinthian columns, is the finest Venetian church front on the island. Walk the rose-filled cloister, the old refectory with its sword-scarred table, and the roofless powder magazine left as the blast made it. Twenty minutes inland from Rethymno through olive groves – go late afternoon, when the stone turns gold and the tour buses have rolled back down the hill.
Neratze Mosque
Ottoman grandeur repurposed – Rethymno's tallest minaret marks a mosque-turned-concert hall in the old town. The Neratze Mosque stands at the heart of Rethymno's old town, its slender minaret the tallest landmark on the skyline. Built in the 17th century by converting an earlier Venetian church, it blends Ottoman and Venetian architectural DNA in ways that feel uniquely Cretan. Today it serves as the city's music conservatory – listen for rehearsal notes drifting through the courtyard. The minaret is one of the few in Crete you can still see intact. The surrounding streets are among the old town's most atmospheric, with arched doorways and weathered stone facades.
Castelo
Sandy's pick for dinner – "dinner at Castelo": back in the old town, candlelight under the vines after a day inland.
Santorini
Days 11–13 of 22 · 3 nightsThere are 18 towns and villages in Santorini. Most visitors stay in only 5 of them mostly the capital, Fira or the much-photographed Oia or Imerovigli. All of these are perched on the Caldera and look out over the volcano, with incredible sunsets. Some people also like to stay in the beachside towns of Kamari or Perissa which are a more affordable alternative.
Altana Heritage Suites Santorini
Cave suites and apartments on the Imerovigli caldera edge – a sunset terrace, a small pool, Skaros Rock a short walk away.
9.8 Alternative places to stay
SantoriniDay 1
Kamari, Ammoudi Bay & Oia
Kamari beach
Kamari Beach is one of the most popular and most visited beach resorts in Santorini. It is located in the seaside village of Kamari. The beach is composed of black volcanic sand and is 5 kilometers long, among the 3 longest beaches in Santorini, with deep crystalline waters and a series of trees. It is fully organized with hundreds of sunbeds and umbrellas, showers, a lifeguard on duty and numerous facilities.
Ammoudi Bay
At the bottom of the scenic village of Oia, lies the charming, small port of Ammoudi. It is a beautiful, tiny cove with crystalline waters and fishing boats lying in the sea. Here there are no beaches, sand, sunbeds and umbrellas but you can have a distinctive experience by swimming from the dock. Nevertheless, it is preferable that you follow the path, past the taverns, that ends up in an awesome diving area with crystal clear waters.
Oia
World’s most iconic sunset on this cliffside village of astounding beauty. Narrow alleys wind their way through whitewashed buildings adorned with blue-domed churches and vibrant bougainvillea, while the island’s caldera and the azure sea, stretching out as far as the eye can see, offer a dramatic backdrop to the scene. Visitors can explore the village's charming streets, lined with boutiques and cafes, and soak in the laid-back atmosphere. Oia was the first village in Greece to become a heritage site as its greatest part has been built below ground level partly hewn within the rock. As the sun sets, the sky transforms into a riot of colors, making for an unforgettable experience that will stay with visitors long after they've left this magical place.
Santorini Mou
A family taverna in Finikia, a few minutes' walk below Oia, where dinner comes with live Greek music almost every night – the owner straps on his guitar around nine and the singing runs late. Checked tablecloths, a flower-filled courtyard, lamb and fish done simply and well. Book a table; the garden fills fast in summer.
SantoriniDay 2
The Caldera Cruise & an evening in Fira
Santorini Caldera Cruise
A classic – Red Beach, White Beach, Hot Springs in Palia Kameni, Nea Kameni, swimming, snorkeling, volcanic bath (optional) and a greek meal with beer and wine included on this cruise on a modern catamaran yacht. Capture stunning panoramas of picturesque Santorini and its volcanic lagoon. Transfer from and to your hotel / vacation rental, as well as snorkeling equipment, also included. We will provide full details, and proceed to reservations if you wish, following your booking.
Fira
Fira is the capital town of Santorini and one of the most enchanting ones in Greece, built on an impressive location on top of steep cliffs. It was founded in the late 18th century, and has been built in the traditional Cycladic architectural style. A tour in Fira is a unique experience: picturesque neighbourhoods, snow-white houses, churches with light blue domes, busy alleys lined with shops, cafeterias and restaurants, offering - almost all of them - a breathtaking view of the caldera. Firostefani village is on the town's highest level, offering the visitor a truly breathtaking sunset view.
180° Sunset Bar
Built into the wall of an old Venetian castle on the caldera edge of Oia, with cocktails in your hand and the most famous sunset in the world a metre away. Yes, it's touristy. Yes, it's overpriced. And yes, when you're sitting there with the entire caldera blazing orange, none of that matters.
SantoriniDay 3
Perissa, Pyrgos & the Wineries
Perissa beach
The beautiful Perissa Beach lies at the base of Mesa Vouno Mountain that separates Perissa from Kamari and on its top you can admire the eminent archaeological site of ancient Thera and a superb view. The scenery that the black lava sand along with the sandy sea bottom and the dark blue, crystal clear waters compose is impressive. It is one of the longest and most famous beaches in Santorini, a characteristic sight of the volcanic island. It is a fully organized, cosmopolitan beach with an abundance of comfy lounging chairs, umbrellas and other amenities, like lifeguards, showers and a playground.
Pyrgos
Pyrgos is a big village, with many mediaeval houses and noteworthy churches offering an excellent view of the island
Wine Tasting Tour
Volcanic soil, sea spray, and 3,500 years of winemaking – Santorini's vineyards produce whites unlike anywhere else. A half-day tour visits two or three estates, sampling Assyrtiko (crisp, mineral, electric), Nykteri (barrel-aged and honeyed), and Vinsanto (sun-dried grapes turned liquid amber). The vines grow pruned into low baskets – kouloura – to shield grapes from the Aegean wind. Santo Wines and Venetsanos have caldera-view terraces; Domaine Sigalas is the serious oenophile's pick. Most tours include local cheese and olive pairings. Book a sunset session if available – the caldera turns gold through a wine glass.
Metaxy Mas
In a hospitable and relaxing space, reminiscent of an island house porch, and an atmosphere full of the Aegean Sea's colors and aromas, you will savour excellent dishes inspired by the islands of Santorini and Creta. Enjoy cool Cretan salads with dakos (barley rusk) and caper, as well as krasotigania and pork from Creta. The friendly staff here uses fresh ingredients from the restaurant's kitchen garden, refreshing raki (the iconic grape-based pomace brandy of Crete) and handpicked wines to ensure that, upon leaving Metaxy Mas, you have a full stomach, and sweet memories!
Le Moustache Pool Lounge
Caldera-edge cocktail bar and pool lounge – daybeds by the infinity pool, a DJ that starts slow and builds into sunset, a cocktail menu that takes Santorini's volcanic produce seriously. For that one evening you don't want to cook dinner with the rest of the island, just order another round and watch the colour change.
Paros
Days 14–17 of 22 · 4 nightsFor many people Paros is the perfect Greek island. Not too small nor too big, with something for everyone. It is also strategically located as the first ferry port from Athens to the popular Cyclades islands and therefore a great place to access the mainland coming from the other direction. We like to stay in Naoussa on Paros which many say is like a small, cheaper version of Mykonos with a lively mix of tavernas, bars, and nightclubs as well as lovely whitewashed alleys full of great cafes and boutiques and gelati stores. The port town of Parikia is also nice and a little more affordable than Naoussa.
La Maltese Central
Bright, modern rooms two streets behind Naoussa's harbour – the fishing-boat quay and the tavernas on foot.
9.8 Alternative places to stay
ParosDay 1
Kolimbithres, Paros Park & Naoussa
Kolimbithres Beach
Kolimbithres is Paros's most distinctive beach – granite boulders sculpted by wind and water into small coves on a turquoise bay, each pocket of sand its own private spot. Best done as a morning beach before the boats come in.
Monastiri Beach
Spend a few hours at Paros Park – a historic nature reserve on the peninsula past Naoussa, with a lovely beach and beach club. Monastiri is the park's sheltered cove: calm, clear water inside the bay, walking trails out to the lighthouse, and an open-air cinema on summer nights.
Naoussa
Many say Naoussa is like a small, cheaper version of Mykonos – a lively mix of tavernas, bars, and nightclubs as well as lovely whitewashed alleys full of great cafes and boutiques and gelati stores. Sandy's pick for where to base yourself on Paros. Park outside the centre and walk in; the streets are too narrow for cars.
Venetian Castle of Naoussa
A half-submerged medieval fortress at the harbour's edge – Naoussa's most iconic silhouette and sunset vantage point.
Moraitis Winery
Visit Moraitis Winery in Naoussa – the island's landmark winery, run by the Moraitis family since 1910. The stone-built estate at the edge of town works Paros's own grapes, Monemvasia and Mandilaria, and the tasting room pours them alongside a tour of the old cellars. The courtyard under the vine pergola is the spot for a late-afternoon glass before Naoussa's tavernas.
Sigi Ikthios
You can't visit Naoussa without dining at one of the lively port restaurants – and Sigi Ikthios ("the silence of the fish") owns the old harbor's front row. Tables spill across the flagstones to the water, fishing boats tie up an arm's length away, and the menu is what came off them: grilled octopus, salt-baked fish, sea-urchin pasta. Book at sunset and let the evening run long.
Agosta Bar
Right on the old port of Naoussa, Agosta is where the evening lingers after dinner – cocktails and good music with the fishing boats bobbing a few metres away. Tables spill onto the quay, the crowd mixes locals with the well-dressed drift from the restaurants next door, and nobody is in a hurry. Start with a spritz at dusk and see where the night takes you; its immediate neighbours are worth a look too.
ParosDay 2
Parikia & the Church with the 100 Doors
Martselo Beach
Across the bay from Parikia, four kilometres by road or ten minutes on the small boat that crisscrosses the harbour. Fine pale sand and water that stays shin-deep for what feels like a hundred metres before deepening. Half organised (sunbeds, volleyball, beach bar), half unspoiled – pick your side. Geographic shelter from the meltemi means it stays calm even on windy days, which is why locals come here when the rest of the island is white-capping.
Parikia
The port town of Parikia is also nice and a little more affordable than Naoussa – and you can easily spend a day just wandering around and exploring. Whitewashed lanes wind back from a long seafront of cafes; the old Kastro quarter is built straight through with ancient marble column drums, and the windmill on the quay marks the spot where every Paros trip begins.
Panagia Ekatontapiliani
Aka The Church with the 100 Doors – Panagia Ekatontapiliani is one of the most important churches in Greece, and one of the oldest still in continuous use, with parts dating back to the 4th century. Legend counts ninety-nine doors found so far; the hundredth, they say, will open when Constantinople is Greek again. Quiet and cool inside; the icons and mosaics reward a slow visit. Free to enter; modest dress required.
Dionysos Garden Restaurant
In Parikia, Dionysos Garden Restaurant is truly lovely – hidden in the courtyard garden of an old house just off Market Street in the Old Town. Candle-lit tables under the pergola and the trees, mussels and octopus done properly, and the kind of family hospitality that has guests booking the next visit before they leave. Reserve ahead in season; the garden fills early.
ParosDay 3
Golden Beach, Lefkes & the Quarries
Golden Beach (Hrysi Akti)
A long, wind-blessed shore that hosts international windsurfing championships – Paros's sport beach with golden credentials.
Lefkes
The most beautiful mountain village on Paros – built amphitheatrically into a green valley, once the Ottoman capital.
Ancient Marble Quarries
Visit the once famous Marathi Marble Quarries – marble for the Venus de Milo and Napoleon's tombstone came from here. Pure, fine-grained and almost translucent, Parian marble was the stone of choice for most of the great classical sculpture. The tunnels, a quiet 15-minute drive inland, still bear chisel marks from antiquity.
Rada
The gastronomic concept of Gikas Xenakis, one of contemporary Greek cuisine's celebrated chefs, set on Agioi Anargyri beach a short walk from Naoussa centre. Modern interpretations of seasonal Greek ingredients in small-plate format; floor-to-ceiling glass framing the sunset. Limited tables and an intimate room – book early, and dress for the occasion. The wine list pairs Greek varietals with the menu.
ParosDay 4
Antiparos
Camping Beach
Legendary among alternative travellers and free spirits – a Cycladic beach icon where the dress code is strictly optional.
Cave of Antiparos
The oldest known cave in Greece – 45-million-year-old stalactites, Lord Byron's graffiti, and 411 steps into the earth.
Antiparos Town & Venetian Castle
A whitewashed village built within 15th-century fortress walls – where islanders still live in homes stacked upon each other.
Milos
Days 18–20 of 22 · 3 nightsMilos is an incredible island in the Cyclades group that is giving others like Santorini a genuine run for their money. With similar extraordinary geology and landscapes as the result of volcanic activity it also has stunning beaches, quaint villages and some of the best food in Greece! Milos has some of the best, and most interesting beaches in Greece. Its main industry is Mining and there are many mines still in production today. This is why you see amazing colours and landscapes on Milos that you don’t see on the other islands. It is not as developed as islands like Paros and Naxos and certainly Santorini and Mykonos so it is luckily rarely crowded, as there is simply a limited number of rooms.
Cave Suites
Private-pool suites with wide sea views, built for quiet.
9.7 Alternative places to stay
MilosDay 1
Sarakiniko & Plaka
Sarakiniko Beach
Sarakiniko is Milos's signature – white volcanic rock sculpted by wind and sea into a lunar landscape on the island's north shore. No shade, no facilities; bring water and a hat, and come at sunset for soft light. Sandy's tip: the cliff jumps are visible from the path; admire from a safe distance.
Catacombs of Milos
One of the most important early-Christian monuments in the world – a 2nd-century underground burial complex carved into the volcanic hillside above Trypiti. Three connecting galleries, hundreds of arched tombs, and traces of original wall paintings. A short, atmospheric visit and an unexpected counterpoint to the island's beach reputation. Closed Tuesdays.
Plaka Village
Plaka is the chief town in Milos, a Greek island in the Cyclades group. It is perched on the top of large rock, overlooking the gulf of Milos. No cars can enter the village because of the narrow spaces between walls and buildings. Motorbikes, mopeds and the like are the only usable vehicles.
Plaka Castle (Venetian Castle of Milos)
Plaka Castle, often referred to as the “Venetian Castle of Milos,” is the last remaining artefact on the Greek Island of Milos, which bears testament to the ancient times of Venetian rule. Make the short climb to the top of the mountain from the small town of Plaka below, and embrace the spectacular 360-degree views of the entire island, stretching as far as the eye can see. There is no better way to experience the entirety of Milos than here, and a visit is certainly a must-do for anyone traveling to the island.
O Hamos Tavern
A garden courtyard buried in bougainvillea, clay plates with the restaurant's name fired into them, and kleftiko lamb that falls apart before you touch it. O Hamos is the kind of place that makes you wonder why restaurants anywhere else try so hard. The kitchen uses milk from the owners' own goats, cheese from their farm, and whatever the sea delivered that morning. The cheese pies are legendary; the fried artichokes appear only in season and disappear fast. Handwritten menu, no pretense, cash preferred. Just outside Adamas, a short walk from the port – arrive early or book ahead, because everyone on the island knows this place.
MilosDay 2
The Kleftiko Cruise & Adamas
Daily Cruise to Kleftiko - Polyaigos
The Kleftiko boat day is the trip's highlight if the wind allows – a full day on a small boat along Milos's south coast, anchoring at sea caves and arches the pirates used as hideouts. Book early in the trip so you have a buffer day if the captain cancels for weather.
Adamas
Milos's port town and lively heart – where the ferries dock, the restaurants line the waterfront, and the evening passegiata happens. The Mining Museum on the eastern edge tells the volcanic-island story; the small chapels and the inland streets reward an hour of wandering. A natural base for the easy day in the middle of the trip.
Mikros Apoplous
In Adamas don't miss Mikros Apoplous – right on the waterfront and one of the best seafood restaurants in the Cyclades islands. With a chilled cabinet of fresh seafood to choose from, including lobster and fish, you will be amazed at the value you get for your money here. Not to mention the incredible views, especially at sunset!
MilosDay 3
Paliochori, Fyriplaka & Pollonia
Paliochori Beach
Volcanic colors you won't find on any other shoreline – dark sand giving way to red and yellow cliffs that still vent heat from below. Paliochori stretches across three coves on Milos's south coast, each with its own character. The central section is where beachside tavernas grill fish over geothermally heated sand – order the baked tomatoes, cooked in the earth itself. Hot mineral springs bubble up through the seafloor in the shallows, warming patches of water to almost bath temperature. The multicolored rock formations behind the beach shift from ochre to green to rust, proof of the island's volcanic restlessness. Sunbeds available in the main cove; the western section is quieter.
Fyriplaka Beach
Firiplaka with its towering volcanic cliffs, snow-gray fine sand, white pebbles and shallow turquoise waters is situated between the beaches of Provatas and Tsigrado. The extensive beach has umbrellas, sunbeds and a bar hut. There is also a cave under a huge rock in the water near the shore carved out of a volcano a long time ago. Access to the beach is possible by your own vehicle, taxi, bus or even by boat which goes around the island, starting from the port of Adamas. While most of the road is asphalt, the last part of it is a gravel paved driveway.
Pollonia
Pollonia or Apollonia is a seaside village in the north-eastern part of the island of Milos, Greece. It is the second harbor of Milos island after Adamantas and it has taken its name from the temple of Apollo that existed to the east of the settlement.
Kostantakis Winery
Sample local wines at Kostantakis – a cave winery outside Pollonia where the barrels age in galleries carved into the volcanic rock. The tasting flights move through Milos's indigenous Assyrtiko and Mandilaria, paired with local cheeses and the sort of vineyard view the tour brochures try and fail to capture. Book ahead in summer.
Yialos Restaurant
Tables on the sand, feet in the pebbles, the fishing boats of Pollonia bobbing a few meters away – Yialos is where seafood and setting conspire perfectly. Chef Achilleas Kamateris trained across Europe but cooks Aegean: raw fish preparations, grilled catch of the day, and creative plates that stay rooted in Cycladic simplicity. The sunset from the beachfront tables is an event in itself. Twenty years in, still the best restaurant in Pollonia and arguably the best seafood on the island. Northeast tip of Milos, about 10km from Adamas. Reservations are non-negotiable in summer.
Athens - Riviera
Days 21–22 of 22 · 2 nightsLocated on the southern coast of Attica, the region surrounding Athens, the Riviera stretches from the port of Piraeus to Cape Sounion, approximately 70 kilometres (43 miles). It starts around the neighbourhood of Tzitzifies and extends to Vouliagmeni and beyond, about 16 kilometres from the ancient centre. Tram Line 3 (Syntagma to Voula) offers a scenic route along the coastline. The beaches along the Riviera are some of the best in Greece, with golden sand and crystal-clear waters that are perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and water sports. Vouliagmeni is the crown jewel of the Riviera, known for its natural beauty, luxury resorts, and serene atmosphere. Two nights here to finish – the beaches, the lake, the sunset at Sounion – on the coast of Athens, minutes from the centre by tram or taxi.
Somewhere Boutique Hotel
Sandy's mid-range pick in Vouliagmeni – right across from BlueFish restaurant and a short walk to Lake Vouliagmeni, a thermal lake with a day spa and restaurant.
9.3 Alternative places to stay
Athens - RivieraDay 1
Glyfada Beach, Vouliagmeni & the Lake
Glyfada Beach
Glyfada's free public beach – pebbly, clear water, the boutiques and beach bars a few streets back. Glyfada Beach is located along the coast southeast of Athens and tends to be very busy during the summer season. The beach is pebbly, and the clear waters are perfect for a refreshing swim. It is free to enter and partially organized: showers, changing rooms, toilets, a lifeguard service and some parasols – which are rented out quickly in the early morning. There are no restaurants or bars on the beach itself, but plenty of places to eat nearby. Glyfada is the beating heart of the Riviera: high-end shopping, a thriving food scene, a marina, a seaside promenade for a walk or a bike ride, and some of the best bars and clubs in Athens, where locals and visitors come to dance the night away. Easily reached by local bus or the tram, and by car – though there is no parking close to the beach.
Vouliagmeni Beach
Vouliagmeni's wide sandy bay – pristine water, organized facilities, beachfront cafes. Vouliagmeni is the crown jewel of the Riviera, known for its natural beauty, luxury resorts, and serene atmosphere, and this is its main beach: the big sandy bay below the Vouliagmeni–Varkiza road, with pristine waters, organized facilities, and beachfront cafes, perfect for relaxation and swimming. Entry is charged. The coastline here is dotted with upscale hotels, fine dining restaurants, and secluded coves, and there are hiking trails through pine forests and along the coast with views of the Saronic Gulf. Lake Vouliagmeni, the thermal lake, is just along the coast road; the marina – a charming spot for an afternoon stroll or waterfront dining – lies in the other direction. Vouliagmeni is beyond the end of the tram line at Voula, so come by taxi or the X96 bus.
Lake Vouliagmeni
A natural lake with warm, mineral-rich waters reputed for their healing properties. The lake is surrounded by cliffs and offers a tranquil setting for swimming and spa treatments – a thermal lake with a day spa and restaurant, a short walk from Vouliagmeni's beaches and restaurants. The brackish water is replenished both by the sea and by underground thermal springs, which is what makes the swim here unlike any beach on the coast. It pairs naturally with the sea: a swim in the bay first, then the warm water of the lake as the afternoon cools.
BlueFish
Seafood in Vouliagmeni, the Riviera's crown jewel – a smart dinner a short walk from the thermal lake. BlueFish is a seafood restaurant on the Vouliagmeni seafront (Poseidonos Avenue), the stop for dinner after a day on the beaches and a swim in Lake Vouliagmeni, a thermal lake with a day spa and restaurant that is a short walk away. Vouliagmeni is known for its natural beauty, luxury resorts, and serene atmosphere; its coastline is dotted with upscale hotels, fine dining restaurants, and secluded coves, and the marina is a charming spot for an afternoon stroll or waterfront dining. The area is very popular with celebrities, politicians, and VIPs, many of whom live nearby, so expect a smarter evening than a harbourside taverna: fresh fish and seafood, a table worth booking in summer. It sits beyond the end of the tram line, so a taxi back to wherever you are staying is the easy way home.
Athens - RivieraDay 2
Astir Beach & the Temple of Poseidon at sunset
Astir Beach
An iconic high-end beach club offering a luxurious experience with private cabanas, gourmet dining, and beachside service. Surrounded by pines, Astir Beach is a 400-meter-long sandy beach with incredible high-level facilities: besides lounges and parasols, there are restaurants and bars, boutiques, spa treatments, and free Wi-Fi – plus the Astir Ski Club, beach volley courts and a racquets area. It is open to the public for a significant entry fee, about 30 minutes from Athens. Within the complex sits the Temple of Apollo Zoster, an ancient archaeological site providing a glimpse into the area’s history. Make sure to book a sunbed online in advance if you would like to stay at Astir Beach. A big plus? Sunbeds come with towels and a bottle of water!
Temple of Poseidon Sounio
The coastal road that runs from Piraeus to Cape Sounion offers breathtaking views of the sea and the rugged coastline and ends at one of the highlights of the Riviera, the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion. This ancient temple sits atop a cliff overlooking the sea, offering stunning views of the sunset. Its Doric columns were raised in 448–440 BC, in the age of Pericles, on the southernmost tip of Attica. Arrive well before the sun goes down – the light on the marble is the reason to come this far – and allow an hour at the site before heading back up the coast for dinner.
Barbarossa Athens Riviera
Naoussa's famous Barbarossa, transplanted to the Voula seafront – the Riviera's seafood dinner. Barbarossa Athens Riviera is the 2nd offshoot of the famous Barbarossa restaurant from Naoussa, Paros – the lively port restaurant favoured by celebrities – and it sits inside 91 Athens Riviera, the resort that Greek operator Domes opened on the Voula seafront with 28 opulent ‘glamping’ tents and a tennis club. The cooking is seafood, as in Naoussa, eaten by the sea with the coast road behind you. If you have come down from a sunset at the Temple of Poseidon, this is the natural place to end the evening; if you ate at the original on Paros, it is the same name on the coast of the capital. Voula is a sophisticated, upscale suburb with quiet streets and chic cafes, and it is possible to walk into Glyfada from here. Book ahead in summer.